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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.